MB&F SP One Pavée replica watches

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A First Look at the Diamond-Set MB&F SP One Pavée



Diamond accents lend a dazzling brilliance to the SP One, highlighting its anti-gravity visual effect and fluid case silhouette without ever appearing ostentatious.

While the Special Project One may be the most compact, slender, and wearable timepiece MB&F has ever released, it proudly upholds the brand's DNA of three-dimensional design. Launched last year as part of MB&F's "Special Projects" collection—a series dedicated to concepts conceived over the years that had not previously come to fruition—the SP One originated from a "Three Circles" sketch created by Max Büsser in 2018. Featuring three suspended elements, the concept was revived and developed in collaboration with designer Eric Giroud to become the inaugural SP One model. Now, MB&F proudly introduces a dazzling yet serene diamond-set version: the SP One Pavée.

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Like many MB&F creations, the SP One (Special Project One) began with a hypothetical question. Max Büsser wondered what an elegant, classic, yet surprising watch might look like if reimagined through the lens of MB&F's signature elements. He sketched his ideas on paper. During the pandemic, the MB&F team used the unexpected downtime to revisit long-shelved projects. Amidst imaginative fantasies and disparate designs—ranging from skateboards to razors—genuine inspiration emerged, including Büsser's "Three Circles" sketch. The sketch roughly depicted three circles housing the mainspring barrel, the balance wheel, and a suspended dial. Designer and longtime MB&F friend Eric Giroud subsequently refined and modified the sketch before handing it over to the engineers.

The second iteration of the SP One series retains the elegant, captivating dial design of the original while incorporating diamond accents that accentuate the watch's exquisite structure. However, unlike many diamond-set watches, the SP One Pavée deftly avoids ostentation; the exquisite—one might even say "understated"—setting of 255 diamonds accentuates the case's fluid curves and frames the suspended movement with a play of light and shadow. Diamonds are tightly arranged along the curved bezel and case flanks, creating a seamless, refined pavé effect.

The SP One features a rounded, 38mm white gold case reminiscent of a pebble—or perhaps a miniature UFO. Departing from the convention of setting diamonds on the bezel itself, MB&F has chosen to set them on the inner flange. Fifty-five brilliant-cut diamonds encircle the suspended mechanical assembly like an amphitheater, casting a soft glow over the dial. Two rows of pavé-set diamonds—totaling 165 stones—accentuate the case's rounded profile, while the crown at 10 o'clock is adorned with 14 sparkling diamonds. The white gold pin buckle is also embellished with two rows of diamonds, totaling 21 stones.

Beneath the ultra-domed sapphire crystal—which rises to a height of 12mm—three mechanical elements appear to float in mid-air. Numerous internal components are concealed beneath these elements, enhancing the illusion of suspension. An oversized 2.5Hz balance wheel at 2 o'clock mirrors the curvature of the dial's periphery; an open-worked single barrel at 10 o'clock slowly releases energy, revealing its 72-hour power reserve; and a tilted sub-dial at 6 o'clock displays the time. This new diamond-set edition features a deep blue background complemented by polished, three-dimensional hour markers and open-worked hands.

The case back offers a glimpse into the mechanics driving the suspended display. The manual-winding movement features a Y-shaped bridge layout, showcasing the complex gear train and conical gears that power the intricate displays on the dial. The bridges are finely finished, gear angles are hand-polished, and edges are beveled and polished; striking gold chatons are set into the bridges, which are rhodium-plated, while the movement features a contemporary micro-blasted finish.

The lugs are hand-polished with a brushed finish at the tips, securely holding the light blue calfskin strap.

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Technical Specifications – MB&F SP ONE PAVÉE
Case: Diameter 38mm x Thickness 12mm (including highly domed sapphire crystal) x Lug-to-lug 41.9mm – 18K white gold case – Case sides set with 165 pavé diamonds – Crown at 10 o'clock set with 14 diamonds – Highly domed sapphire crystals on dial and caseback, both with anti-reflective coating – 19 components – Water resistance: 30 meters
Dial: Y-shaped openworked dial featuring a suspended balance wheel at 2 o'clock, an openworked mainspring barrel at 10 o'clock, and an inclined deep blue sub-dial for hours and minutes at 6 o'clock – Inner flange set with 55 diamonds
Movement: SP One movement – ��Proprietary – Manual winding – 189 components, 31 jewels – Frequency: 18,000 vph (2.5 Hz), featuring MB&F's signature balance wheel – Single barrel – 72-hour power reserve – Inclined dial at 6 o'clock displaying hours and minutes
Strap: Light blue calfskin – 18K white gold pin buckle set with 21 diamonds